Olio per i nostri V8

[leoallafila]

Questo e' il sito del distributore in Italia, sono persone veramente ottime, ci ho lavorato per anni a suo tempo.



[url="http://www.raceporter.com/"]raceporter[/url]



Mi viene in mente che un altro prodotto loro che dava degli ottimi risultati era il "water wetter", da aggiungere al liquido refrigerante che migliora le propieta' termiche dello stesso.

[nigel68]

[quote name='leoallafila' post='408445' date='23/2/2012, 22:47']Dunque ho appena acquistato 12 litri di Brad Penn 20-50, a 76 dollari, presso un'officina specializzata in Porsche d'epoca. Mi ha detto che qualche anno fa quando gli olii "normali" hanno tolto certi additivi molte delle bavaresi che aveva in cura hanno avuto problemi grossi, sopratutto dopo un rebuild. Da allora ha provato vari olii e per esperienza diretta lui trova che il Brad Penn sia il migliore: costa poco, e' molto "affidabile" (nel senso che e' una delle pochissime raffinerie che fa tutto in casa: dall'estrazione del greggio al prodotto finito) ed ha una formulazione immutata da anni, pensata per motori spinti di vecchia concezione che comprende una media di 1400 ppm di ZDDP (sembra che oltre i 900 sei a posto leggendo vari articoli). A questo aggiungo che chi ha preparato il motore lo ha consigliato: per il mio motore non ho dubbi! Tradotto diventano 4,8 euro al litro, ma dubito che sia distribuito in EU [/quote]



Occhio che i derivati dai greggi della Pennsylvania sono famosi per produrre morchie (sludge), per cui l'olio deve sempre lavorare in temperatura e va cambiato pi? frequentemente...

Lo ZDDP lo vendono su ebay.co.uk a 16 sterline compresa spedizione

[leoallafila]

[quote name='nigel68' post='408471' date='24/2/2012, 08:56']Occhio che i derivati dai greggi della Pennsylvania sono famosi per produrre morchie (sludge), per cui l'olio deve sempre lavorare in temperatura e va cambiato pi? frequentemente...[/quote]



L'olio prevedo di cambiarlo ogni 2000 miglia, e la tendenza a creare sludge e' un problema conosciuto e riscontrato nel caso di chi usa benzina E85 in motori tipicamente moderni e turbo, specialmente se lasciati fermi per mesi alla volta: Brad Penn consiglia di NON utilizzare i loro olii in queste applicazioni. O hai altre info al riguardo che mi sono sfuggite?

[leoallafila]

Ecco il loro bulletin

[Caddy1976]

eventualmente io farei un trattamento di Sintoflon ET ogni 15/20000 miglia.

Costicchia un pochino, sopratutto se il trattamento lo si fa a un motore di grossa cilindrata, ma per esperienza diretta, posso parlarne solo bene.

[leoallafila]

L'ho usato in passato anche io, ricordo di essere anche andato ad una loro presentazione stampa dove mostravano di aver trattato una macchina (tipo una Megane se non ricordo male) con il loro prodotto, per poi drenare l'olio, e completare due giri di Monza a tuono con il motore "a secco" di olio senza che si rompesse. Ho cercato un po' in rete ma non ho trovato nessuna testimonianza di chi lo abbia utilizzato sul nostro tipo di motori, non vorrei essere il primo a scoprire che quel tipo di trattamento fa implodere il motore in un buco nero...

[bigmuscle]

Oggi ho comprato 12 litri d olio in flaconi da 4 lt p15w40 .. Più un additivo che servirebbe ad aumentare la viscosità Dell olio... Nn l'ho ancora usato,devo ancora comprare il filtro ..

La marca è EV MAX .. Come prezzo era simile ad agip, ip,castrol,e serve al 360 benzina del mio f100 del 71... Prima d procedere con loperazione mi dite se può andar bene o se ho fatto una cappellata? Grazie come sempre a tutti ..

[nigel68]

Se il motore gira bene e non mangia olio, 15w40 è già una buona viscosità, meglio se è a base sintetica (si deteriora di meno). L'unico addittivo al mondo che ha un significato e l'ho imparato a 40 anni su questo forum è lo ZDDP, tutti gli altri sono cappellate allucinanti.

I completamente minerali dall'ottimo potere lubrificante li lascio ai motori che girano alti di temperatura e a cui cambiano l'olio spesso. Tanto anche quelli minerali moderni (tranne lo Shell Rotella e gli olii da competizione) non hanno lo zinco dentro, quindi tanto vale.

[BLACK CAT]

L additivo zddp plus lo puoi comprare su e bay ...



Poi se vi intereessa aggiungo una ricerca molto interessante fatta da un utente sul forum Chevy in USA ... Il post è molto tecnico e dettagliato .. In pratica un esperimento empirico sulle proprietà antiattrito di vari oli , da quelli racing a quelli popolari a buon mercato .. I risultati sono sorprendenti e per nulla scontati ... Ci sono anche alcuni oli disponibili in Italia ...Castrol , Valvoline , Mobil 1 , Royal Purple .. Il post è in inglese ... enjoy reading...



I think folks would generally agree that the most important thing a motor oil does, is prevent metal to metal contact. Everything else it does comes after that. Liquid oil is incompressible, no matter what the viscosity. So, in the places and conditions inside an engine where you have enough flow between parts to maintain a presence of liquid oil without it being squeezed away, all oils will offer similar protection in preventing metal to metal contact.



But, under extreme loading and/or heating conditions, as well as at flat tappet interfaces, distributor gear interfaces (particularly those with high volume oil pumps), BBC lifter bore primary thrust surfaces (due to tilted pushrods and often offset pushrod seats in the lifters, along with high spring pressures), and cold start-up where oil has run off, to name just a few examples, you can be left with only a very thin "film of oil" to prevent metal to metal contact, rather than enough flow to have a presence of liquid oil.



In these cases, an oil's "load carrying capacity/film strength" is all-important to prevent wear. And in this regard, oils vary greatly. But finding this data for comparison is nearly impossible because most oil companies do not publish this type of info. And when you can on occasion, come up with some data, you never know if you can trust its accuracy because it will typically be advertising based.



I consider "load carrying capacity/film strength" to be the first thing to consider when choosing a motor oil to run. Detergent/dispersant levels for anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge, TBN acid neutralizer levels, anti-foaming agent levels, and NOACK volatility percentages, etc, etc, all come after that.



So, I bought an oil "load carrying capacity/film strength" tester. This gives me the capability to test and compare various oils head to head, using the exact same test equipment and the exact same test procedure. That way I'd know the truth first hand. The testing was performed in Southern California during February and March 2012.



As far as I know, I'm the only one who has ever done such a wide ranging motor oil wear test. I went to all this trouble because I wanted to "KNOW" how good various oils are, rather than have to essentially guess. I really only did this testing for my own knowledge, and to share it with a handful of car buddies. But a few of those car buddies talked me into posting the info on some of the Forums, so that everyone could get a chance to see all the data. So, the test results are shown below, for those who might like to see them.

I

I'll make it perfectly clear right up front. My testing was not done inside a running engine. I tested 44 different oils, and testing that many oils in a running engine was simply not practical, not to mention that there would be too many variables to have a true apples to apples comparison. All my testing was done with the oil tester. So, for those who put no value on data gathered from "Lab" testing, feel free to close out now, and go on to the next topic. For everyone else, read on.



My tester spins a test ring bathed in oil at 456 rpm (7.6 rev/sec), and a test specimen is "gently" brought down into contact with the spinning ring. A load is then "gently" applied to the test specimen and is "gradually" increased, so as not to suddenly punch through the oil film, and also to allow the zinc a bit of time to get hot and become effective.



At the conclusion of each 30 second test, the wear scar that is generated, is carefully measured with the aid of a magnifying glass to maximize accuracy. Then the psi that the oil supported, is calculated, which gives the value of its "load carrying capacity/film strength". All the oils are of course subjected to the exact same test procedure, so they all have the same opportunity to perform as well as they can.



NOTE: The test results are intended to enlighten and inform, not to offend. And they were generated without bias towards any particular brand or viscosity. To prove that there was no bias here, my long time "oil of choice" Royal Purple, did not show up all that well. And I did not hesitate to show that. For better or worse, the numbers simply are what they are, and speak for themselves.



I have a copy of the official ASTM D 2782, the Standard Test Method for Measurement of Extreme-Pressure Properties of Lubricating Fluids (Timken Method). And for the record, ASTM D 2509, is the Standard Test Method for Measurement of Load-Carrying Capacity of Lubricating Grease (Timken Method). They are NOT the same test spec.



The ASTM D 2782 calls for testing the oil at 100*F, yes 100*F, NOT 100*C. Testing at that temperature is completely worthless in my mind. Because that is really just a hot "room temperature", and is not hot enough to be representative of actual oil temperatures inside a running engine. And for example, 0W30 and 10W30 are not even the same viscosity at room temperature, but they are rated the same viscosity by the time they reach 212*F (100*C). So, in order to obtain the most valid data possible, I did all the oil tests at 230*F, which has all the same hot category multi-viscosity oils at the "same" viscosity, and is representative of oil temps inside a running engine. That being the case, I did not precisely follow what I consider the useless ASTM D 2782 standard.



Note:

*** The test procedure I used was developed and refined to obtain the best possible repeatability, which ensures the most accurate test results possible. Once I made the final revision to optimize the procedure, testing began and the exact same test procedure has been used over and over again for all the following tests.



*** I used 5W30 Castrol GTX conventional oil during the entire test procedure development phase, in order to keep things consistent. During that time, I tested it both HOT (230*F) and COLD (mid 60's F). And it's COLD "Load carrying capacity/Film strength" was about "TWICE" as high as its HOT capability. So, the hotter and thinner the oil, the lower its "Load carrying capacity/Film strength".



*** The testing here only evaluates "Load carrying capacity/Film strength", but does NOT test an oil's slipperiness/friction reducing qualities. Load carrying capacity and slipperiness do NOT necessarily go hand in hand. For example, if we were to fill our engines with thick old school STP Oil Treatment, we'd have much higher "load carrying capacity/film strength", but the HP would plummet due to all the extra viscous drag. Therefore, the testing here does NOT provide any information regarding HP increasing capabilities. But in the future, I do plan on doing a separate oil test on the "slipperiness/friction reducing qualities" of each of the oils tested below. So, stay tuned for that.



*** I was able to directly compare 20 wt type oils, 30 wt type oils, 40 wt type oils and 50 wt type oils because even at 230*F, all the oils stayed on the spinning test ring nicely without flinging off. Therefore, no viscosity had any advantage over another.



A few overview highlights of the results:



*** The High Performance and Racing oils did NOT dominate all the top ranking positions as expected. In fact, contrary to popular belief in the Hotrod and Racing world, simply having high levels of zinc/phos was absolutely NOT a guarantee of high "load carrying capacity/film strength". Some high zinc/phos oils had excellent test results, while other high zinc/phos oils had only fair test results.



*** This testing has clearly shown that a particular oil's "load carrying capacity/film strength", is NOT determined just by its zinc/phos levels, but rather, it is determined by the oil and its additive package "as a whole". So, if people choose an oil strictly based on its zinc/phos levels, they could easily end up having a "LOT LESS" protection than they think they have.



*** This testing has clearly shown that an oil's viscosity is also absolutely NOT an indicator of its "load carrying capacity/film strength". Among the 44 oils tested here, 50 wt type oils ranked from 6th to 40th, 30 wt type oils ranked from 1st to 44th, and 20 wt type oils ranked from 10th to 35st. So again, an oil's "load carrying capacity/film strength" is determined by the oil and its additive package "as a whole", nothing else.



*** This testing has clearly shown that you simply CANNOT PREDICT an oil's "load carrying capacity/film strength" by looking at its specs or its viscosity. You can only determine that capability by performing some type of actual wear testing, as I've done here. But, there are of course other wear test methods that can be used as well, such as the 4 Ball Wear Test which is somewhat popular in the oil industry. Though I have only seen Amsoil list results from that type of wear testing. My tester and the 4 Ball wear tester are in no way attempting to duplicate engine internals. Instead, they are designed to test oils directly against each other in a controlled and repeatable manner.



*** The latest "LOW" zinc/phos API certified oils, both synthetic and conventional, performed WAY better than expected. In fact, they are so good that their capability has surpassed most of the traditional high zinc/phos High Performance and Racing oils.



*** "Low cost" conventional API certified oils performed WAY better than expected.



*** Lucas and Valvoline Racing oils performed very well.



*** Royal Purple High Performance, Racing and street oils generally performed below expectations.



*** Brad Penn High Performance and Racing oils performed below expectations.



*** With that said, there are no BAD oils here. Some are simply better than others in terms of "load carrying capacity/film strength". Those that have a higher capacity, offer a higher margin of safety than those with lower capacity



Motor Oil Wear Test Results and Ranking



*** The higher the psi result, the higher the "Load carrying capacity/Film strength", and the better the oil is at preventing wear.



*** All oils were tested at 230* F (representative of actual running temperature).



*** Multiple tests were performed on each oil, and those results were averaged to arrive at each oil's final value shown below. Differences between oils of 10% or less, are not significant, and oils within that range can be considered approximately equivalent.



*** All oil bottles were thoroughly shaken before the samples were taken. This ensured that all the additive package components were distributed uniformly throughout all the oil in the bottle, and not settled to the bottom.



*** All oils are full synthetic unless otherwise specified.



*** All oils are suitable for street use unless otherwise specified.





Oil categories:



*** Over 90,000 psi = OUTSTANDING protection



*** 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD protection



*** 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST protection



*** Below 60,000 psi = UNACCEPTABLE protection







********** OUTSTANDING PROTECTION ************





1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 115,612 psi

I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification. The bottle says, "No leading synthetic oil provides better wear protection". For once, a product's hype turns out to be true.

zinc = 806 ppm

phos = 812 ppm

moly = 66 ppm



2. 10W30 Lucas Racing On‌ly = 106,505 psi

zinc = 2642 ppm

phos = 3489 ppm

moly = 1764 ppm

NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.



3. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN = 105,875 psi

zinc = 801 ppm

phos = 842 ppm

moly = 112 ppm



4. 0W30 Amsoil Signature Series 25,000 miles, API SN = 105,008 psi

zinc = 824 ppm

phos = 960 ppm

moly = 161 ppm





******* 10% below number 1 = 104,051 psi ********





5. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi

zinc = 1669 ppm

phos = 1518 ppm

moly = 784 ppm

NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.



6. 5W50 Motorcraft, API SN = 103,517 psi

zinc = 606 ppm

phos = 742 ppm

moly = 28 ppm



7. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi

zinc = 1472 ppm

phos = 1544 ppm

moly = 3 ppm



8. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi

zinc = 1180 ppm

phos = 1112 ppm

moly = 162 ppm



9. 5W30 Chevron Supreme conventional, API SN = 100,011 psi

This one only costs $4.29 per quart.

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



10. 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 99,983 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD

titanium = TBD





11. 20W50 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 96,514 psi

zinc = 610 ppm

phos = 754 ppm

moly = 94 ppm



12. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil = 96,470 psi

zinc = 2207 ppm

phos = 2052 ppm

moly = 1235 ppm

NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.



13. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN = 96,364 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



14. 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN = 95,920 psi

zinc = 877 ppm

phos = 921 ppm

moly = 72 ppm



15. 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 95,717 psi

zinc = 818 ppm

phos = 883 ppm

moly = 90 ppm

titanium = 44 ppm



16. 10W30 Joe Gibbs XP3 Racing Oil = 95,543 psi

zinc = 743 ppm

phos = 802 ppm

moly = 1125 ppm

NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.



17. 5W20 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,543 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD

NOTE: Oil numbers 16 and 17 were tested weeks apart, but due to the similarities in their wear scar sizes, their averages ended up the same.



18. 5W30 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,392 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



19. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil = 95,360 psi

zinc = 1431 ppm

phos = 1441 ppm

moly = 52 ppm



20. 5W30 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,942 psi

zinc = 969 ppm

phos = 761 ppm

moly = 0 ppm



21. 5W30 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 94,744 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



22. 5W20 Mobil 1, API SN = 94,663 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



23. 5W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,460 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



******** 20% below number 1 = 92,490 psi ********



24. 5W30 Lucas conventional, API SN = 92,073 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



25. 5W30 O'Reilly (house brand) conventional, API SN = 91,433 psi

This one only costs $3.99 per quart.

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



26. 5W30 Red Line, API SN = 91,028 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



27. 5W20 Royal Purple API SN = 90,434 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



28. 5W20 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 90,144 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



************ GOOD PROTECTION **********





29. 30 wt Castrol Heavy Duty conventional, API SM = 88,089

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



30. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil = 86,270 psi

zinc = 1247 ppm

phos = 1137 ppm

moly = 24 ppm



31. 5W20 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 86,034 psi

I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification.

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



32. 5W30 Royal Purple API SN = 84,009 psi

zinc = 942 ppm

phos = 817 ppm

moly = 0 ppm



33. 20W50 Royal Purple API SN = 83,487 psi

zinc = 588 ppm

phos = 697 ppm

moly = 0 ppm



34. 5W30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15,000 mile, API SN = 83,263 psi

zinc = 890 ppm

phos = 819 ppm

moly = 104 ppm



35. 0W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 82,867 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



******** 30% below number 1 = 80,928 psi ********





**************** MODEST PROTECTION ************



36. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) = 74,860 psi

zinc = 1421 ppm

phos = 1338 ppm

moly = 204 ppm

NOTE: This particular bottle of oil was just opened, but was out of a 3 ½ year old case.



37. Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 Nitro 70 Racing Oil (semi-synthetic) = 72,003 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



38. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi

zinc = 1621 ppm

phos = 1437 ppm

moly = 0 ppm



39. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi

zinc = 1557 ppm

phos = 1651 ppm

moly = 3 ppm



40. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN = 70,235 psi

zinc = 1,133 ppm

phos = 1,168 ppm

moly = 83 ppm



******** 40% below number 1 = 69,367 psi ********



41. 5W30 Motorcraft, API SN = 68,782 psi

zinc = 796 ppm

phos = 830 ppm

moly = 75 ppm



42. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) = 66,211 psi

zinc = 1774 ppm

phos = 1347 ppm

moly = 189 ppm



43. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi

zinc = 1154 ppm

phos = 1075 ppm

moly = 0 ppm



44. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi

zinc = TBD

phos = TBD

moly = TBD



******** 50% below number 1 = 57,806 psi ********





Summary:



Readers can of course do whatever they want with these results. But for me, seeing is believing. The smallest wear scars created by the best oils, were quite impressive. So, now I'll be choosing oils for my Hotrods and daily drivers from the OUTSTANDING PROTECTION category, in order to have the highest level of protection. There are plenty of different oils in this category, 28 of the 44 to be exact, and they all have 90,000 psi or higher capability. After reading this report, you may never think about motor oil the same way again..

[leoallafila]

Articolo molto interessante, e sembrerebbe anche fatto molto bene in condizioni "vere" di temperatura (altri hanno pubblicato test con gli olii a temperatura ambiente...). Hai il link diretto?



Mi chiedo pero' che senso abbia fare confronti diretti tra olii di gradazioni diverse: e' ovvio che avranno performance profondamente diverse a parita' delle altre condizioni.



Rileggendo con piu' attenzione il test che ha fatto prova soltanto uno degli aspetti molto specifici delle capacita' protettive degli olii. Aspetto che lui reputa il piu' importante. Non sono abbastanza preparato in materia per sindacare, ma per mia sensibilita' credo che non dia il vero valore di un olio.

[ESA]

domandina: la Montego da sempre gira con un 20w50 minerale Norauto ( ) sostituito, insieme al filtro, ogni 3500 miglia circa. ora devo fare il cambio olio ma non ho trovato il mio solito oliaccio bensi una tanica da 5 litri di 20w50 HPX sintetico e l'ho comprata dato che era pure l'ultima.

premetto che il 351M gira come un rolex, non mangia minimamente olio e non fuma.

faccio male a buttare dentro l'olio verde sintetico?

meglio fare prima un lavaggio con il flush (tipo il bardhall o il winns) ?

oppure lo tengo da parte e me ne dimentico e vado alla ricerca di un altro 20w50 minerale?

[Piero]

Se col minerale va come un rolex perche' rischiare che diventi uno swatch?

[ESA]

mmmhhh.... addirittura? ... non trovando il mio solito ho preso l'hpx solo perche ha la stessa gradazione... in effetti non sono convinto nemmeno io. l'hpx lo terrò di scorta in fondo al magazzino

[Piero]

[quote name='ESA' timestamp='1334699636' post='420503']

mmmhhh.... addirittura? ... non trovando il mio solito ho preso l'hpx solo perche ha la stessa gradazione... in effetti non sono convinto nemmeno io. l'hpx lo terrò di scorta in fondo al magazzino

[/quote]

ho un po' esagerato...ma se col minerale va cosi' bene non cambiarlo....c'e' anche il Motul minerale che va benissimo....

[ESA]

ma la cosa strana è che fino a fine 2011 trovavo il 20w50 in ogni dove... ora sembra di chiedere la luna... ok, lo prenderò on line

[Piero]

[quote name='ESA' timestamp='1334700025' post='420506']

ma la cosa strana è che fino a fine 2011 trovavo il 20w50 in ogni dove... ora sembra di chiedere la luna... ok, lo prenderò on line

[/quote]



Ok!!!

[nigel68]

L'HPX è a base sintetica, non completamente sintetico. Contiene addittivi antiusura e un particolare adittivo che aumenta l'adesione alle pareti dei cilindri anche quando il motore è fermo da molto tempo (è un prodotto che aggiungono negli oli impiegati nell'esercito). Certo non contiene Zddp ma per le storiche con le tolleranze molto elevate è un buon olio e migliora la compressione. La leggenda che è una porcheria perchè è verde è indicativo della cultura media che gira oggi nell'ambiente motoristico italiano. Lo uso abitualmente e non ho notato particolari effetti negativi, solo positivi.

100.000 volte meglio delle porcherie minerali della Pennsylvania che dopo un anno fanno la cera.

[ESA]

[quote name='nigel68' timestamp='1334729527' post='420522']

L'HPX è a base sintetica, non completamente sintetico. Contiene addittivi antiusura e un particolare adittivo che aumenta l'adesione alle pareti dei cilindri anche quando il motore è fermo da molto tempo (è un prodotto che aggiungono negli oli impiegati nell'esercito). Certo non contiene Zddp ma per le storiche con le tolleranze molto elevate è un buon olio e migliora la compressione. La leggenda che è una porcheria perchè è verde è indicativo della cultura media che gira oggi nell'ambiente motoristico italiano. Lo uso abitualmente e non ho notato particolari effetti negativi, solo positivi.

100.000 volte meglio delle porcherie minerali della Pennsylvania che dopo un anno fanno la cera.

[/quote]



tutto ok ma quello che ho chiesto io è: consigliabile fare un flush completo o posso tranquillamente svuotare la coppa dal vecchio 20w50 minerale e riempire poi con il nuovo HPX senza tanti problemi?

eventualmente, quella piccola quantità del vecchio 20w50 che rimarrà in circolo nel motore può miscelarsi con il nuovo olio HPX oppure no?

inoltre per il discorso zddp non mi preoccupo. ho additivi a sufficienza per le prossime 100k miglia

[nigel68]

Non succede niente, i semisintetici sono già una miscela di minerali e sintetici. L'importante nelle miscelazioni è che la gradazione sia la stessa.. lo cambi a caldo e lo lasci scolare bene, cambiando anche il filtro quanto vuoi che ne rimanga in circolo.. diciamo mezzo litro (a stare molto ma molto larghi)? su 4,5 litri cosa vuoi che gli fa?

[ESA]

k